Crepe myrtles are hot right now. In fact, no subject is of more interest to Southerners this summer than the non-stop coverage of Michael Jackson. (FYI, before the funeral, the family rejected embalming MJ, as that would be redundant.)

Thus, the ever-generous, all-caring Grump will answer 10 of the most common questions about crepe myrtles directed his way every week.

1. What does crepe myrtle need to grow well and bloom?

 Answer -- Lots of sun, well-drained soil, and extended summer heat. After suffering for so many years from hearing about how great gardening is in England, I am gratified to know that crepe myrtle hates it there. The summers aren't sufficiently long and hot.

Winter cold is another consideration for you people up north. Although some selections, such as 'Acoma' (white), 'Centennial Spirit' (dark red), 'Comanche' (coral pink), 'Hopi' (medium pink), 'Yuma' (lavender), and 'Zuni' (lavender), are reputed to withstand temperatures below zero, if zero temps are common where you live, I wouldn't plant crepe myrtle. It does best in Zones 7, 8, and 9. Instead, plant 'Pink Diamond' or 'Tardiva' hydrangea. (Both are selections of summer-flowering Hydrangea paniculata.)

2. When is a good time to plant crepe myrtle?

Answer -- When the plant is dormant, either in fall, winter (where winters are mild), or early spring. Of course, you can plant a crepe myrtle grown in a container in summer too, as long as you water it frequently to keep it from wilting. Once it's established, it's quite drought-tolerant.

3. When should I prune crepe myrtle?

Answer -- Late winter is the best time for two reasons. One, the plant has no leaves, so you can easily see all the branches and which ones need removing. Two, crepe myrtle blooms on new growth. Pruning in winter won't reduce summer blooming.

Having said that, you can produce a second major flush of blooms on most crepe myrtles by pruning off the round, green seed pods that form just after the first flowers fade. The second flush won't be quite as showy, but you'll like it nonetheless.

4. What is "crepe murder?"

Answer -- Crepe murder is the odious practice of using saws and loppers to cut down a crepe myrtle into thick, ugly stubs, usually performed on an early spring weekend by bored husbands seeking to justify their existence to women. This ruins the natural form of the plant, produces weak spindly branches too weak to hold up the flowers, and prevents the formation of the beautiful, smooth, mottled bark that looks so pretty in winter.  

For specific instructions on pruning crepe myrtles, see "Stop! Don't Chop" and "Crepe Myrtle Pruning Step-by-Step," two highly informative articles written by your favorite Grump.

5. What's that black stuff all over the leaves?

Answer -- Hershey's Dark Chocolate. Nah, just kidding. Actually, it's black mold growing on the sticky honeydew produced by sucking insects, usually aphids. Get rid of the aphids and you'll have no mold. Spray according to label directions with an environmentally friendly product, such as refined horticultural oil on insecticidal soap (make sure to wet the undersides of the leaves), or a systemic insecticide that's absorbed into the leaves, such as Ortho Max Tree & Shrub Insect Control.  

6. White that's white stuff all over the leaves and flower buds?

Answer -- Powdery mildew, a fungus that likes warm, humid weather. Many older types of crepe myrtle are highly susceptible. The fungus distorts the foliage and often ruins the flower buds. While you can prevent powdery mildew by spraying according to label directions with a fungicide such as Daconil or Immunox or even with refined horticultural oil, you're better off buying a mildew-resistant selection, such as 'Natchez,' 'Miami,' 'Sioux,' 'Dynamite,' and 'Biloxi.' Look for this on the plant label.

7. Why doesn't my healthy crepe myrtle bloom?

Answer -- Could be lots of reasons. Maybe it doesn't get enough sun. Maybe powdery mildew ruined the blooms. Maybe Japanese beetles ate it. Maybe it just needs a few more years to grow. Maybe you're in a drought. A crepe myrtle will often go dormant during a very dry summer with flower buds ready to pop. They'll only pop when the plant gets some water, either from rain or from you. 

8. What are some crepe myrtles that don't get so tall?

Answer -- One way to avoid crepe murder is to select varieties that don't need pruning. Small ones (5-10 feet) include  'Acoma,' (white), 'Hopi' (pink), 'Tonto' (red), and 'Zuni' (lavender). Dwarf types (3-5 feet) include 'Centennial' (purple), 'Petite' (various colors), 'Razzle Dazzle' (various colors), 'Pocomoke' (rose-pink), and 'Victor' (deep red).

9. What are the Grump's favorite crepe myrtles?

Answer -- 'Natchez,' (tall white), 'Miami' (tall pink, pictured above), 'Catawba' (medium purple), 'Dynamite' (medium red), 'Watermelon Red' (tall red), 'Petite Orchid' (dwarf purple).

10. Why do you spell crepe myrtle with an "e"?

Answer -- It never ceases to amaze me how many people think this spelling is the most significant issue facing the world today. I spell it with an "e" because the crinkled flowers remind me of crepe. If you want to spell it "crape," go ahead -- on your own blog.

At the insistence of my wife, my co-workers, and everyone else who knows me, I have been banished to the Florida coast for the next four days to watch the waves roll in, stroll in the surf, and feed small unaccompanied pets to the bull sharks.

But have no fear, Grumpians, I haven't forgotten my commitment to you. Even here, where the sloths of the sand spend all day reading in recliners in the shade of umbrellas, I still work to enlighten you on matters of horticulture. Why, just last evening, I discovered some fascinating information.

For example, a quick tour of the local village revealed a number of blue agaves growing in people's gardens. One resident told me of a special juice made from these plants that he fermented and mixed with lemon and lime juice to make a refreshing drink named for his mother, Margarita. In the interest of science, I had to try it and it was quite good. However, knowing that first impressions can sometimes be misleading, I repeated this experiment four more times. Sadly, my research abruptly ended when I fell asleep.

Oh well -- I am at the beach, you know. At least, I wasn't wasting my whole day reading a book.

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Today, I will research another drink locals make with something called "rhum" that is flavored with mint and key lime juice and called a "moheeto." (Hope I got the spelling right -- I don't speak much French.) But before that, I will answer a gardening question or three from faithful readers. 

"Dear Grumpy,
I have a really stupid question, but you have answered my stupid questions before. I planted a bare root silver maple about 6-8 weeks ago. It is still a great big ol stick with stick branches. How do I know if it's just slow or dead? I am in SE Alabama. I'm not very patient, but don't want to pull the plug too soon.
Thank you, Holly."

The Grump replies: There are no stupid questions, just stupid morning show hosts. Your tree should have leafed out by now, so I would guess it's dead. One easy way to find out is to scratch the bark with your fingernail or a knife. If there is a green layer just under the bark, there's hope. If it's brown, pull the plug.

A question from Julie:

"You recently wrote of the virtues of centipede grass for lawns, but I find it an invading nuisance to my flower beds.  Is there an easy and/or effective way to keep it from overtaking my plants?"

The Grump replies:Yes. All you have to do is mix up some Roundup according to label directions and spray along the edge of your beds a couple of times a year. That will keep the centipede out. If you're afraid of accidentally spraying good plants, use Ortho Grass-B-Gon instead. It comes in a spray bottle and only kills grass.

And a question from Gitta:

"I need your help desperately. I have about fifty azaleas in my front yard – all Red Ruffles – who have an illness! After blooming the bushes have developed a growth mostly on the tips that look almost like warts. They are light green, grow larger and turn color to a lighter green, almost light yellow. I contacted my garden center and was advised there was no medication for the disease. All I should do is remove them. I have filled a garbage can – I am embellishing ! – and every morning there is new growth which I promptly remove again. I cannot believe that YOU would not know how to handle my problem. Will you help, please."

The Grump replies: Fortunately, you have contacted the one person in the world who can identify your problem and tell you exactly what to do. The growths are due to a fungus called azalea leaf gall that usually appears after stretches of cool, wet weather in spring. Light green growths with the texture of apple flesh eventually envelop the leaves and turn whitish. At that point, they release spores that infect other leaves.

 Azalea leaf gall

I would advise doing two things. First, pick off and throw away all of the infected leaves before they grow and turn white. Second, spray your azaleas according to label directions with a fungicide such as Daconil, Bayer Advanced Disease Control for Roses, Flowers, and Shrubs, or Spectracide Immunox. If you prefer a more natural funcide, try Soap-Shield liquid copper fungicide. You can spray now to prevent leaf gall from spreading to new foliage. Next year, spray your azaleas just as they are about to bloom.
 
 

I love my readers! Recently, in a comment on my recent post, "Great Small Tree for Your Yard", Vikki said she was thinking replacing a "coveted mimosa" with a Chinese fringetree. I replied that coveting mimosa was like coveting Camilla Parker-Bowles.

Well, today faithful Grumpian, Jean, called my attention to a fascinating story involving the Duchess of York. Apparently, Camilla was preparing to attend a funeral in East Sussex when nature called. So she popped into the Hare and Hounds pub in Framfield and asked to use the toilet. Extremely excited proprietors Razai and Chris Azerkane were flushed with joy and pride. In fact, the two are still in such a swirl, they're auctioning off the toilet seat! 

"Rarely has a toilet seat borne the weight of a nation more gracefully," proclaimed British foreign minster, John Loo. "This is a testimony not only to the seat, but to all the Bowles as well."

According to reports, the incident royally impressed the Queen. Her Higness now believes that in the course of time, the Duchess will be worthy to descend to the throne.  

You Ask, I Answer

OK, I know some of you feel cheated when you come to this site and all you find is stuff about Camilla, So here's a real gardening question about a mystery plant.

Hi Steve!

This is the mysterious plant I was given as a gift this week.  I am attaching two pictures of it--one from a distance and one close up.  If you tell me it is just a green plant that needs a little water and a little sun, I swear to you that I will cry. Lianne

 Lianne, I have conclusively identified the plant in the photo. It is named "houseplant."
 
Sorry, I was just being mean. Actually, what you have is a Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema modestum 'Silver Queen'). It is one of the easiest houseplants to grow, because it tolerates low indoor light and low humidity. The soil should be well-drained and moist, but never soggy. The one thing it doesn't like is temps below 50 degrees, which will cause brown spots on the leaves. If the plant ever gets too big, you can clip out the top of the central stalk and new growth will ensue.
Grumpy

When Northerners move to the South, the plant they miss most is lilac. They want to know why they can't buy one or if they can, why it won't bloom.

Here's a typical question about lilac from Jim in northern Florida.

"We live close to Jacksonville and have been looking for a lilac. At one nursery we went to, the guy didn't even know what a lilac was. At another one, they said they don't have them because they won't grow in Florida. I asked him why and he said it was too hot. I can't understand that, because it southeast Kansas we had a lilac in the yard for as long as I can remember and it often gets over 100 degrees there in summer." 

Jim, the problem with lilacs in the South is not how hot it gets in summer. After all, it can get over 100 degrees in Canada. The problem is the duration of the heat and the length of the winter. The majority of lilacs need a long period of winter chill in order to bloom well. Jacksonville is not going to get that. 

There are a few low-chill hybrids that might possibly bloom for you (although I wouldn't bet the farm on it). They include 'Lavender Lady' (it's blooming now in Birmingham), 'Blue Skies,' and 'Angel White.' In the Lower South (Zone 8), you can also grow cutleaf lilac (Syringa laciniata), littleleaf lilacs (S. microphylla 'Superba'), and 'Miss Kim' lilac (S. patula 'Miss Kim'). A good mail-order source for all of these plants is Forest Farm. 

A good substitute for lilacs in the South is lilac chaste tree (Vitex agnus-castus). It has very showy lavender-purple to deep blue flowers in early summer, although the blooms aren't fragrant. I have 'Abbeville Blue' in my yard and the spikes of deep blue flowers are spectacular. Another good one is 'Shoal Creek' with lilac-blue flowers. You can get chaste tree at many garden centers or order them from Forest Farm.

Hey Grumpians! Can any of you grow lilacs? Which ones? 

Photo by B Mully.

As always, the generous Grump is here to answer your most perplexing garden questions. Here's one about forsythia from Pam Nichols:

Hi! I have three large forsythia that are about 20 years old.  They are in full sun and have not been trimmed in a couple of years.  The last two years they have had no blooms (well, maybe three flowers in all).  What am I doing or not doing wrong?  Help!

If your shrubs are 20 years old, I would say they are prime candidates for a technique called renewal pruning. This involves in cutting 1/3 of the oldest, woodiest canes to the ground every year for three years. Do this immediately after the forsythia finishes blooming. This will remove the old, tired growth and promote new, vigorous growth with lots of flowers. Don't prune in summer, fall, or winter or you'll cut off flower buds for next spring. In 3 years, you'll have brand new shrubs.

Some people advocate renewing shrubs like forsythia (also called yellow bells) by cutting them completely to the ground after they bloom. I think this is a little drastic, unless your shrubs are very overgrown.

Renewal pruning can also be used to rejuvenate the following shrubs:

1. Beauty bush (Kolkwitizia amabilis)

2. Fuzzy deutzia (Deutzia scabra)

3. Dwarf flowering almond (Prunus glandulosa)

4. Japanese kerria (Kerria japonica)

5. Lilac (Syringa sp.)

6. Spirea (many kinds)

7. Weigela (Weigela florida)

8. Winter honeysuckle (Lonicera fragrantissima)

9. Mockorange (Philadelphus sp.) 

We had a terrible infestation of grasshoppers last year. What can we do to stave off these pests?

Photo by turtlemom4bacon

Dear Grumpy,

We recently purchased a house with what once was lovely landscaping.  It's been essentially neglected for at least 10 years.  One bright spot is a wall of gardenia bushes along a walkway, but they are MASSIVE- and completely overgrown.  Whan can I prune them back?  If I do it now, will it affect the blooms next year?  How aggressive can I be when I do prune them?

Thanks!
Lost in my new garden....

Hilary

Q: I planted spring flower bulbs -- paperwhites, daffodils and hyacinths -- in early October. They have all started to come up and are have already several inches of growth. I might have planted them to early (just a guess on my part), but is there anything I could or should do now to still have spring flowers? Will the current growth just die off?
John Berchin

Cape plumbago (Plumbago auriculata) -- One of Grumpy's favorite sources for blue flowers!

Q: I live in South Florida and my cape plumbago and ficus hedge has been infested with white fly. There is a lot of dead wood on the underside of the plants and they are thinning out rapidly. I can't afford to replace them - I have over 130 feet of plumgago beds.

Any suggestions?

Thank you,
George DeBarros

Q: I have two camelias that begin to bloom in October and continue to bloom until January if we don't have a killing frost.  I don't know their name.  However, one of them (only this year) has leaves that look mutant.  They are tiny and haven't grown much.  The other is fine.  They about 12 to 14 feet apart on the south side of my house (this is the front).  These camelias are about thirty years old and I really like them.  They have at times had rubbery looking leaves but nothing like this.
Can you tell me what to do?

Dianne Hollifield
Kings Mountain, NC

Q: Grumpy Gardener,
I live in north Texas and am new to gardening in Texas. Last fall, I planted over 200 tulip bulbs. Daily when I would go out to my garden, bulbs would be dug up by squirrels. It was a constant battle, they would dig, I would replant. Any ideas how I can deter them?
Thanks.
Connie Cleveland
Granbury Texas

Dear Grumpy Gardener,
I live in Ville Platte, La. Located in the center of the state. I need a fast growing tree that will grow next to a patio and provide shade. I have crepe myrtles and river birch trees in other areas of my yard so I am looking for something different. Do you have any suggestions?
Thanks, Andree

Q: Help!  The most beautiful rose I have ever seen is across the street and I don't know  it's name.  It is  a climbing rose and has been neglected for the last fifteen years, yet continues to bloom with more petals per rose than I have ever seen. 

Here is my question.  How do I move it from my neighbors yard to mine?  I have never transplanted anything in my life but this plant has been offered and I need to act right away.  Please try to help me if you can.

Thanks,
Judy Wynn
A looooooooog time subscriber.

Q: What is the name of the crepe myrtle cultivar located at the wall surrounding the Auburn University Library?
Robert Harrington

Q: Dear Grumpy,
I have a fenced-in backyard that receives afternoon sun and morning shade. Two Goldens Retrievers occupy the space.  How do I design the yard to be dog-friendly, but have flower beds too? We are also extending our deck.

Thanks,

Cher

Dear Grumpster,
Please suggest a tree for me. We live in lower Alabama and I need suggestions for a tree that will stay compact and not grow too tall for a spot between my house and a new deck. I'm trying to break up/soften the appearance of the area by creating a bed in between the brick houses and new deck.

Thanks,
Holly

Q: Dear Grumpy,

I need to transplant a boxwood that is in the way of an addition to the house. How do I do that? It needs to be done now (October).

Carol

(Cathy's Rust)

Q: I am so confused about replanting container fall mums. Can you leave the mums in a container for the winter or should you replant them in the ground? I have done both, and not had the best of luck. I know that mums roots can freeze in the containers. But I have transferred container mums in the ground before the first frost, with no luck. I live in zone 7.

Thanks.
Michele Quarton

Q: OK, Grumpy, here's a new one. I have two garden spiders on each of my window boxes in the back yard (on my husband's barn). I believe they are called garden or banana spiders. One is large and has weaved a zigzag (I guess she's the she) and on the other box is a smaller one with no zigzag (I guess he's the he). I don't really want to kill them, but they have made it nearly impossible to water the boxes because the webs are so large. Do you know of any way to run them off before my husband, the spider killer, does away with them?

Thanks,
Holly

Q: Could you please identify the unnamed leaves on page 96 of the September 2008 issue of Southern Living? Sure looks like cannabis.
Marilynne S.

Q: Hello Grumpy Gardener,

To our delight, we have a hummingbird couple living in our yard and frequently visiting the feeder near our patio. They seem to like our hibiscus but, I'm wondering what else we can plant that they will be attracted to in the flower bed next to our backdoor and in the planters on the patio itself. Thanks for any suggestions you might have.

Vicki
Charleston

Q: My dwarf crepe myrtle bloomed in July---a beautiful deep red/watermelon color---same color it has been for ten years. I deadheaded the blooms, fertilized it, and two weeks ago it bloomed again. Guess what? It was pink. What happened to my beautiful red blossoms? Now the blooms are either pink or coral on same stems. I had repotted it in February and fertilized it.

HELP!
Jean

Q: Hi,
I have a sink hole in my yard that will not go away no matter what I fill it with. The hole is approximately 8 inches deep and 8 feet long. I have lived in the house 10 years and the hole has always been here. I'm thinking that there was probably a tree with roots there at some time. Can you help?

Robin Banton

Q: Steve,

I have a tree-shaped ligustrum at the corner of my house that drops 30-40 leaves every day of the year. It's in full sun and is watered regularly. Otherwise, it seems healthy. Is this normal?

Thanks.
Liz

Q: Dear G.G.,
In spring, I have a beautiful bleeding heart plant. Then in fall when it's dying off and gone, I have a large blank spot in my garden. Is there a late bulb or plant that can take its place? The bleeding heart faces west and gets plenty of afternoon sun. Thanks for your help.
Amy Polkabla

Q: Hi Steve, we have a problem with dollarweed in low parts of our yard that stay wet. We've tried some weed killers but even at low concentrations, our St Augustine (much of which is Floratam) the grass seems to be affected more than the weeds. I found a new weed killer "Image" with 4% Atrazine that says it's safe for all St Augustine grass. Is this safe for Floratam? Is it too late in the season to use it? It seems this time of the year is when the dollarweed really takes off. We don't water these areas unless we're into a real drought, so we can't do much about the wetness. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Don Taylor, Panama City, FL

Yahoo, Grumpians! It’s answer & question time! See if you can guess the question to the following answer and win the magic turtle!

Q: Howdy, we live in Dallas and we are having some problems with bugs on our oleanders. Tiny yellow/black insects and most recently some very tiny worm looking things. Any suggestions regarding treatment?
Mark Gist

Q: Dear Grumpy,
Southern living invited readers to ask you questions so here goes. I am having a difficult time growing Japanese maples. The tips of the branches have turned white. The trees have plenty of leaves growing everywhere except for the ends or tips of the branches. This is what happened to two other Japanese maples until they eventually didn't grow anymore leaves and died. What do I need to do?
Thanks,
Rose

Q: I am a teacher and was given a beautiful orchid plant at the end of the school year. It's a month later, the small purple and white blooms have dropped and I'm left with a green stick.

What do I do now?

Deb
Fort Mill, SC

Q: I have a large tulip poplar which was struck by lightning a few years ago. The year it happened, I contacted the county extension service for advice. I was told that trees usually form a callous at the injured spot, but if insects get in the tree, spray. The tree did form calluses on the sides of the wound, but even though I sprayed several times, insects got in, and there is some rotting where the tree is exposed with no bark covering.

I've just had a tree service man give me an estimate on removing some dead trees. I pointed out the problem on the poplar, and he recommended using spray paint on the exposed part of the tree trunk. He said that would keep out any more insects and seal up the rotting area.

Have you ever heard of using this technique and would you recommend it? The tree isn't near any structure. Rita

Q: Hi: Just read the article in September issue about cypress vine. These are my questions:
I live in Nashville. Can I purchase the plant in this area or do I have to order seeds from the sites you provided?
What type of exposure does the vine need; I have a lot of shade/part shade in my yard.
Any other pearls would be helpful.
Thanks for your advice in advance.

Q: We live in Western North Carolina and are just settling into our new home since last September. I took this picture this afternoon of this gorgeous butterfly on a bush outside our home that I would like to cultivate. It has a gazillion blooms and the butterflies are checking them all out which gives me plenty of time to get some good photographs.

Can you tell me the name of this bush? Can it be cultivated with cuttings? Can I buy seeds or plants from you?

Thanks,
Fritz Owens
Zirconia, NC

(photo: Salvia guaranitica 'Black and Blue'.)

Q: I just read in the Aug. issue that I need to cut back my leggy annuals, such as salvia by one-third. Does that mean just one-third of the beautiful blooms or one-third of the whole plant? I don't like the thought of cutting off all the color. They will look scalped! Am I missing something here?
Thanks for your help.
Emily in Macon, GA

Q: I have a common question concerning my hydrangeas blooming pink instead of blue. I purchased them while they were blooming and they were blue.
I know it is all about the soil -- acid for blue blooms -- I have watered them with aluminum sulfate -- and they continue to bloom light pink.

Question 1 --- Am I using the correct product -- if so, how often do I water with this and when do I begin?
Quesion 2 --- When do I prune my hydrangeas so I can be assured of blooms the following year?

Thanks for you time and I look forward to hearing from you.
Lavonda

Q: I would like to transplant an older butterfly bush. When is the best time of year to do this? I like in Southern California in Sunset Zone 18. Thanks much. Jo Formino

Q: Hey Steve,
I was wondering what your professional opinion is on the fake/rubber pinestraw. I am so tired of spending $1,000 every 6 months to replace our pinestraw. It does not last in the Mississippi heat and the roaches love it! I looked up the fake pinestraw on-line and it looks very much like the real stuff. What harm could it do to my plants?
Thanks!
Janie

Q: Hi Grumpy…I have a real serious question for a real serious problem! In the spring, I bought a pretty pricey trumpet honeysuckle vine that is sucking the life outta me! I planted a pre-started vine in full/partial sun and really needed it to wrap around the entrance-way of my house. Life was going swell and the vines were a-wrapping all through spring and summer. Well, I’ve been traveling a good bit and when I got back, all the leaves were yellow and falling off. Now, I know I’ve been watering so it may be a question of too much or too little, but I know that it’s much too early in the game for my new friend to give up on me like this. Is this what it’s all about…buying, planting, and sudden death? I sure hope not. I need the plants I buy to respond the way they say they will on the label!!! I NEED A VINE THAT RAPS!
Mel

Q: I am sooo very frustrated. I bought a house about 2 yrs ago in Orlando that had been neglected and I have slowly been trying to give it much needed TLC. Next to the driveway is a patch about 4 x 30 ft that has some kind of weed. It looks like grass, but has tubers that interconnect with some kind of string. So if you pull just the top, the weed will regrow because the tuber is still there. And, if you pull up one tuber w/the plant, you are still not done because 2 or more tubers can be connected by the strings. The tubers can grow about 6 to 8" below the surface. I don't know if I am making sense trying to describe this, but I really do hope so. I took it to the gardening dept of Home Depot, but they did not know what it was.

Talk about going bankrupt by gardening... I have used at least 3 or 4 different chemicals on the soil from Scotts Weed & Feed (only made it grow thicker), Roundup (only kills the plant top (green parts above ground) but does nothing to the tubers, and other stuff which I can't remember right now. I have purchased all kinds of tools trying to kill this stuff and spent uncountable hours pulling, prodding, shovelling, hoeing, etc etc etc.

I am at the point now where I am tempted to just brick it in and forget about it. But I want grass, and more than that, I want to win. I don't want those weeds to win... So that is why I am writing to you...

Do you have any ideas for me?

Frustrated in Orlando,
Dorothy

Q: Hi, I live in southern Alabama, and just purchased some Arapaho crepe myrtles in seven gallon containers. A couple of the crepes have two trunks coming up from the root ball and each of the trunks branch out about eighteen inches up. These trunks look like they could be separated into two trees. Would you recommend dividing them?
Thank you, Clay

Q: I just located this site -- but have been a Southern Living subscriber for many years.

We have 3 tomato plants (in a good flower bed) which are over 8 ft tall but have produced only several tomatoes. They look healthy, get the morning sun and the tomatoes we have picked are good -- and look good. We fertilized with Miracle Grow for tomatoes.

Can you tell us what we have done wrong so we will not make that mistake in the future?

Thank you,
Naomi

Q: I have several hydrangeas at our home in Wilmington, NC. Three summers ago, they bloomed beautifully, but last 2 summers I've had 1 or 2 blooms on each. They look very wilted but watering hasn't helped. Any suggestions? Kendra

Q: Dear Steve,
Voles have recently destroyed my 3 year old hosta bed. Any suggestions as to what I can do before I replant to avoid a repeat other than put sharp gravel in holes?
Barbara Kozlowski
Richmond, VA

Q: In the July 1980 issue there was an article titled, Let Smilax Climb and Twine ( You were probably in kindergarten then.) That article referred to it as greenbrier smilax (Smilax lanceolata). In recent years (I don't know what issues) you have written at least two articles about smilax. One was titled Easy Curb Appeal and another was One Fine Vine. In each of those you referred to Jackson Vine (Smilax smallii). My question is what is the difference and which one do I want - and where will I find it?
Becky McFadden

Q: I am container growing beautiful & plentiful 'Better Bush' hybrid tomatoes. These tomatoes are gorgeous, bug free thus far, ripening to a beautiful red approx. 2" to 3" tomato that will NOT ripen on the inside. Slicing this luscious looking tomato reveals a green unripe not tasty interior. I live in eastern North Carolina and given our hot water these plants are being watered daily & the pots sit in shallow dishes to reserve the over-flow water to feed the roots from the bottom. Help? Thanks so much! Kay

Q: My bougainvillea vine was blooming when I bought it and has grown like a weed.  Someone told me not to water it too much so I've withheld water--still no blooms.  What kind of fertilizer should I use?  It gets some shade.

Q: Why do my squash plants have just male squash flowers and no females? Cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers and beans planted
in the same area all have fruit on them, but not a female squash flower or squash fruit to be found. What gives?

Thanks,
Loryn James

Q: We received a calla lily plant and we are unsure how to grow it. It was a gift from my mother-in law's funeral and there was no specific plant information given with the plant.

Do we have to dig it up each year?  Do we cut the flowers off to produce more flowers?  Does it flower year round? We live in Cincinnati, OH.

Q: My daylilies have finished blooming. Should I cut the foliage back or just leave them alone?
Thanks for your help.
Jackie Tubbs

A: If the foliage continues to look OK, let it be. If any leaves shrivel and turn brown, pull them off and throw them away. Grumpy

Q: I recently had four 15-year-old Bradford pear trees removed from my front lawn because they were encroaching on the utility lines and I had already had two to die. Prior to having them removed, one tree had sprouts all in the lawn around the tree. Since I've had the other trees removed, they are also beginning to sprout everywhere. I have not had the stumps removed yet. I put rock salt on the stumps immediately after having the trees removed, but this doesn't seem to have helped. How can I stop this unsightly, annoying problem and not kill all the grass or dig up my lawn?

Thanks,
J Masisak
Middle Georgia